User:Tathar/Dye Guide

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Revision as of 02:49, 15 March 2014 by Tathar (talk | contribs) (Initial findings.)
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Warning: This is part of a player's user page and should not be modified without permission. Do not modify this page without consulting Tathar first.

Dye colors

  • Red (cochineal)
150, 100, 100 base
+1, -1, -1 per QL
  • Green (copper lump)
100, 150, 100 base
-1, +1, -1 per QL
  • Blue (woad)
100, 100, 150 base
-1, -1, +1 per QL
  • White (zinc lump)
150, 150, 150 base
+1, +1, +1 per QL
  • Black (iron lump, tannin instead of water)
100, 100, 100 base
-1, -1, -1 per QL

Dye-making recommendations

  • Lower RGB values for contrasting colors result in a stronger color, except for trying to make white. If you need a strong color, start with as strong a black (or main color) as you can get, then adjust from there.
  • Mixing dyes tends to shift the RGB values towards gray due to rounding error. Avoid mixing dyes whenever possible, since gray in the color creates a weak result.
  • If you need a large quantity of red or blue dye, start by making a single heavy black dye of the desired QL, then mix in raw cochineals or woad to get the desired color. This avoids mixing dyes, which would normally be necessary with these colors.
  • There is no way to lower the RGB value of a dye without mixing it with a darker dye. You're better off starting with a dark color and working up.